Route to the castles, fortresses and watchtowers


Chinchón, Buitrago de Lozoya

The arrival of the Moors to the Iberian peninsula, and their drive towards the interior, meant that the Christian kingdoms had to start the "Reconquista" (reconquest). Between the 9th and 10th centuries, the Arabs fortified the Marca Media (central zone), thus forcing armies on both sides to march through the Madrid region in their struggle to capture and consolidate their places between the Duero and Tagus Rivers, in the north and south respectively, of the complex, arduous and inhospitable central mountains.

The fan-like distribution of the river network in the area, in addition to the Roman roads made centuries earlier, would be used by the contenders, who took up positions on the routes to the east and west of the peninsula. Because of these geographical and strategic reasons, places such as the fortress of Alcalá on the advance to the east, Talamanca, Buitrago and Torrelaguna with their respective watchtowers on the north-south axis, or the castles of Villafranca and Calatalifa on the way from the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains to the Tagus River, not only played an important role during the re-conquest, but also in the following centuries.

At the end of the reconquest, during the late Middle Ages, attention was turned once again to the castles and strongholds. The Christian kings gave up some of these buildings and allowed the nobility and military orders, who had fought so hard at their side until the conflict ended, to build others in new styles. The bishop of Toledo, Álvaro de Luna, the Order of Santiago, the counts of Chinchón, the lords of Puñoenrostro, the Lasso de Vega and Mendoza families, were some of the new landowners in the region, and in some cases, still were until recent times.

There are a score of mediaeval buildings which, either because of the ups and downs of later wars, or the alterations and transfers they were subjected to over the years, or through abandonment, are in varying states of conservation and have changed ownership.

There are two routes where visitors can get to know the castles, fortresses and watchtowers. Their superb position or appearance makes them of continuing historical interest, as they witnessed one of the most fraught periods the Madrid region has ever undergone.

THE DEFENCE OF TOLEDO

Boadilla del monte [+]

The palace was built on the orders of the prince, Luis de Bourbon in 1765, after he was expelled from Madrid by his brother, Charles III for marrying Maria Teresa Vallabriga. It was designed by Ventura Rodríguez.

Castle-Palace of Odón in Villaviciosa (16th century) [+]

Juan de Herrera oversaw the construction. Ferdinand VI (1713-1759) retired here to die after the death of his wife, Barbara de Braganza. Nowadays, it houses the Airforce Archives.

Castillo de Villafranca

Moorish fortification that defended Toledo during the reconquest. A combination of brickwork and masonry.

Castillo de la Coracera

(In San Martín de Valdeiglesias) Built by Álvaro de Luna, constable to John II (1406-1454).

Cadalso de los Vidrios

The town was fortified, "cadhalso". The Renaissance palace was built by Álvaro de Luna (1390-1453). The pond where naval battles were re-enacted still exists.

Navalcarnero [+]

A Castilian village famous for its wine. Fine porticoed square with continuous balconies. Philip IV married Maraina of Austria in the church of the Asunción (16th century).

Castillo de Batres (15th century)

The main body dates from the 13th century. The poet Garcilaso de la Vega (1501-1536) wrote his work here.

Torre de Arroyomolinos (15th century) [+]

Built by Pedro Chacón after receiving the estate of Juana Enríquez, wife of Juan II of Aragón (1458-1479) from the Catholic Monarchs.

GUARDING SOMOSIERRA

Torre de Pinto [+]

The date when it was founded is not known, although it was already in existence in 1488. The princess of Éboli was imprisoned here.

Talamanca de Jarama [+]

There are still some remains of the wall built by Muhammad I (852-856). There is also a Roman bridge and Romanesque and Mudejar apses.

Watchtowers at El Vellón, Arrebatacapas (from Torrelaguna to El Berruelo), El Berrueco (near the El Atazar dam) and Venturada

They controlled the Somosierra pass, using smoke signals during the day and torches and bonfires at night. The gate is placed high and they have no windows.

Murallas de Torrelaguna [+]

A town re-taken by Alfonso VI. The walls and church were built by Bishop Pedro Tenorio (15th and 16th centuries). There is an elegant, Gothic church dedicated to Mary Magdalene and a former Renaissance granary, now the local Town Hall, founded by Cardinal Cisneros.

Torre de Mirabel

(Mangirón-Cinco Villas). The tower has Christian origins, and its elegance and austerity stand out against the landscape. There is no clear information on when or why it was built; the entrance is at ground level and the walls have windows.

Buitrago de Lozoya [+]

A fine mediaeval fortress with strategic value since Roman times; the bed of the Lozoya River was used as a natural moat. Alfonso VI repopulated the village in 1096; in 1366, it became part of the Buitrago estate, owned by the Mendoza family. Juan II, Juana la Beltraneja and Philip III lived here. The walls are in good condition, and the layout of the imposing fortress can still be seen clearly. There is also a Picasso Museum.

Castles at Manzanares el Real [+]

Castle at Manzanares El RealOnly the ruins remain of the old castle. It was built by the 1st Marquess of Santillana and Count of el Real Manzanares, Iñigo López de Mendoza, who also founded the new castle, although he was never able to live there. The following dukes of the principality continued with the work (1417-1500); in the final stages of construction, Juan Güas, architect to the Catholic Monarchs, was employed. The monument has been fully restored by the Madrid Regional Council and can be visited. It offers splendid views from the battlements of the Santillana and la Pedriza reservoirs.

Torrelodones watchtower [+]

It guarded the Fuenfría Pass (9th century).

Other defence enclaves in the Madrid Region

Alcalá la Vieja (822-852); Alcalá la Nueva (14th century); fortress of Santorcaz (before 1312); tower of the castle of Villarejo de Salvanés (15th century); castle of Fuentidueña de Tajo: this played an very important role in the reconquest; centre of the kingdom of Doña Urraca (1109-1126); fortress of Chinchón: the new one was built between 1559 and 1579; castle of Casasola (Chinchón) end of the Middle Ages; castle of Torrejón de Velasco.

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