Route to Navalagamella and the Perales mills

Navalagamella [+]

Despite the fact that scholars place the earliest settlements in Navalagamella after the expulsion of the Moors from the area, in fact it was not until the 15th century when the village came to live its moment of glory, mainly thanks to nearby works on the El Escorial Monastery. This was when the local economy began to grow, centring mainly on the manufacture of cloth and the treatment of leather.

The village came to be so important, that in 1782, Navalagamella had seven shrines, of which only three remain to this day: the shrines to San José, El Santísimo Cristo de la Sangre and San Miguel. The first two had to be rebuilt after the civil war, and conserve few vestiges of their previous existence. The San Miguel shrine can be visited in the nearby spot known as Los Degollados. (those with slit throats).

Navalagamella parish church is consecrated to Nuestra Señora de la Estrella and dates from the 15th century. The building has only one floor, and a very attractive bell tower. On the way to Plaza de España Square, you can see the Clock Tower, believed to date from the building of the old town hall in the 17th century. It has two floors, with the clock on the second, and a small belfry on top.

The Perales River

Navalagamella is closely linked with the water, rivers and streams that run through the municipal district. The Perales River is born out of the convergence of various streams, such as the Valladolid, Conejeros and Fuente Vieja. When they get to Navalagamella, their waters are collected in the Cerro Alarcón Reservoir, to then continue down as a tributary of the Alberche River. The Alberche then goes on to join the Tagus River further downstream.

The volume of water in the Perales River is highly uneven – it is almost inexistent in the summer months. The best time to do this route is from autumn to spring, after the first rains. In winter, the river was used by Navalagamella residents to drive their stone flour mills, six in all.

The oldest reference to the Perales mills that we know about dates from Alfonso XI’s Hunting Book. The names of the mills ("molinos") are as follows: Molino Alto, Molino de la Hondilla or Baltasar, Molino Serrano, the old El Escorial Monastery Mill and Molino de Navacerrada. All of them, with the exception of the El Escorial Mill, were privately owned and sublet to millers who ran them.

The hiking route we suggest here runs past some of these mills, or what remains of them, and then returns to the village along the Royal León Cattle Trail.

Finding the trail

To start the route you should leave the car on an esplanade you will find before you enter the village. This is the Perales River bridge car park. Before starting the route you can visit a small medieval bridge, called El Pasadero, which was used to cross the river during the months when the water was highest.

In the car park you will see information panels outlining the route and the number of kilometres to be walked. The route we suggest here follows the same route as the one indicated on the panels, although on arrival at a small bridge in ruins, instead of returning the way you came, we would recommend you take the route of the Royal Cattle Trail.

Taking the dirt track, you will pass a house on the left and continue on the trail to the right. At the beginning there is another panel indicating the route you are on.

There are no pronounced gradients, making this route ideal to walk with children, or for people who are not regular hikers. Nevertheless, don’t forget that the total distance is in excess of five kilometres.

Very close by you will find the ruins of two stone mills, the second with a small aqueduct and a water tower. A little further on you will come across a canal and some pipes that used to carry the water. On your walk, go to the edge of the river, and with a bit of luck you will be able to see fish and some of the birds of prey that feed in this area, such as the kingfisher.

Following the course of the Perales River, you come to the convergence of the Fuente Vieja and Morales Streams, that join the river here. Still a little further, close to a small bridge in ruins, you will find the change of trail for our route.

The Royal León Cattle Trail

Although they are now all but disused, for centuries cattle trails were the natural routes followed by herds in search of better pasture. These livestock trails were called "royal" when they were 75 metres wide, or more. This is the case here, although on some sections it reaches more than 100 metres in width.

To get back to your departure point, just follow the signs in the shape of little cows that mark out the whole route. From here there are about three kilometres left to go, but you will pass through two holm oak copses where, if you fancy it, you can stop for a rest and watch the sky. This is a very good idea, because in this area, with a bit of luck and a good pair of binoculars, you will be able to see the flight of one of the biggest European birds, the black vulture. If the weather is right, you may also see one of the most endangered species of all Spanish fauna in flight – the golden Iberian eagle.

In the groves of holm oak you pass, especially the first one that is still close to the Perales River, it is also a good idea to keep a look out for eagle owls, short-toed eagles, booted eagles, black kites and red kites up amidst the branches.

Following the route along the cattle trail is very straightforward. It is wide and well marked by the little cow signs that we mentioned earlier. It is a comfortable route, and you will probably meet plenty of people doing this part of the cattle trail by bike, another option for sport and enjoyment.

When you get to an old, dried-up fountain, you have to make a 180 degree turn, onto the trail running by a small stream, called Hondillo, which heads towards the car park which you started at.

Besides walking and by bike, this route can also be done on horseback. In Navalagamella you will find Finca Molinos, where they organise horse riding routes along the Perales River or to the Cerro Alarcón Reservoir.

Cerro Alarcón Reservoir

Cerro Alarcón Reservoir is fed by the waters of the Perales River. It is ideal for a quick swim or for water sports. On the waters’ edge there is a Sailing Club with information about all the activities available there.

Tired? Getting your strength back in Navalagamella is a real pleasure. Try a homemade casserole or some roast meat at one of the village restaurants. The lamb here is excellent, and if you have never tried it, treat yourself to some rabbit prepared with thyme. If you want to stay the night, there are a hotel and two guesthouses with reasonable prices, which will give you the chance to explore the wonderful village of Navalagamella in more depth.