North Route – the High Middle Ages

Talamanca del Jarama [+]

The first stop on the route takes us to Talamanca del Jarama. Situated just 46 kilometres from Madrid, Talamanca is a village with many reminiscences of bygone times. In fact, this village is privileged to have been one of the imperial capitals during the reign of Charles I, along with Madrid and Toledo. Numerous Visigoth archaeological remains have been found around the village, demonstrating its importance at that time. At the time of the Visigoths, Talamanca was known as Armantica.

Nevertheless, Talamanca really took its place in history during the Moorish period, in the 9th century, when it was on the route that linked Cordoba, Toledo and Zaragoza. Its defensive wall, which once had a perimeter of 1,200 metres, dates from this period. Nowadays, the wall is highly fragmented and deteriorated – many of its ashlars were used in the construction of other buildings in the village. Nevertheless, you can visit the Puerta de la Villa Gate. Although it is the fruit of later alterations made to the defensive wall in the 14th century, in the centre of the gateway arch, you can still see a small low-relief in the shape of a human figure that is thought to date from the late Roman or Visigoth period.

The Jarama River, from which Talamanca takes the second part of its name, can be found only a kilometre from the village. The bridge over the river was built on the outskirts of the village. It is Roman or perhaps earlier, and would later go on to play an important role in the village’s economy. It was from the 11th century onwards that it was an unavoidable stop on the route from Toledo to Somosierra. Crossing the bridge was subject to a special bridge toll, an obligatory tax that for all those wishing to cross it carrying goods.

When you come, you will notice that the bridge no longer actually crosses the Jarama River. This is because the course of the river was diverted towards the west. This was part of the reason for the decline of the village, from which it would take centuries to recover. Close to the Roman bridge of Talamanca there is a small recreational area where you can stop to rest and recuperate, and enjoy the village’s flora and fauna.

Your visit to Talamanca is not over, though. There are many surprises to be found within the village itself. The village’s importance during the Middle Ages is evident in the numerous churches that were once to be found here – five in all. Nowadays, however, only two of them remain. San Juan Bautista Church and Nuestra Señora de los Milagros, or Morabito Church.

The first is a Romanesque structure built between the end of the 12th century and beginning of the 13th – the apse dates from this period. In the 14th century it was almost completely destroyed and rebuilt by artists from Toledo. Although now it is only possible to enter the church during services, it is highly recommended, given that the apse of San Juan Bautista Church is of great artistic value, one of the few remaining in Romanesque style in the Region of Madrid. You can also see its Baroque tower, which was added in the 17th century, perhaps built on the ruins of an earlier one. The tower is three floors high, topped by a metallic spire in line with Herrera-style of the time.

Walking through the village you come to Plaza de la Constitución Square, where you can visit the apse of Nuestra Señora de los Milagros Church, which is locally known by the name of "Morabito". It is a Romanesque-Mudejar construction from the mid-13th century. You should still not head out of Talamanca before you have seen the two buildings left behind in the village by the monks of Paular Monastery. This order owned a great deal of land in the Region of Madrid, and built the Granary and the Arrabal Cellar in Talamanca in the 17th and 18th centuries.

The Granary is currently private property and can only be visited by arranging an appointment with the owner (ask at the town hall), although from the outside you can see the excellent work on its oak doors, profusely adorned with vegetable motifs, figures both human and imaginary, and small angels. You may be interested to know that in recent times this granary has been used as the set for various cinematographic productions from Spain and overseas. The Arrabal Cellar is situated outside the defensive wall, opposite Puerta de la Villa Gate. It is an unusual construction over three floors built to take maximum advantage of the sloping ground.

The Watchtowers

We now continue towards the next destination, Torrelaguna, just 11 km away from Talamanca. First, however, it is well worth taking a short detour to visit one of the two Moorish watchtowers that still remain in the province – known as the Jarama Watchtowers Site.

These watchtowers formed part of the defensive and surveillance system built by the Moors to defend the city of Toledo. Although it is not known exactly when they were built, experts place the date around the year 1000. This group originally comprised six towers, of which only four remain to this day: El Vellón or Espartal, Venturada, El Berrueco and Arrebatacapas.

These constructions kept to an established set of norms – some 15 metres high and 6 metres in diameter, with two or three floors in the interior. They worked in a very simple way: a fire was lit on the upper floor of the tower, so that the flames could be seen by night or the smoke by day, between one watchtower and the next. When weather conditions did not allow for this kind of signals, the tower keepers would cover the distance from one tower to the next on horseback. Imagine, then, just how many towers like these must have existed during Moorish domination of the peninsula.

The Arrebatacapas watchtower, very close to Torrelaguna, marks the next stop on the route.

Torrelaguna [+]

Declared Historic-Artistic Monument in 1976, the village of Torrelaguna has a wide array of buildings that go from its Moorish defensive walls to its Baroque-style palatial houses. A great melting-pot of cultures that you can enjoy first-hand as you stroll around its historic old town.

Torrelaguna will surprise you not only on account of its architecture, but also for the numerous historic figures that were either born in the village or who spent long periods living there. One of the most important to be born in Torrelaguna was Santa María de la Cabeza, wife of San Isidro (patron saint of Madrid), whose remains were, until the 16th century, in the Shrine that bears her name – you can visit it on your way out of the village.

Another important figure born here was Cardinal Cisneros, confessor and advisor to the Catholic Queen Isabella, and Spanish regent from 1516, on the death of Ferdinand the Catholic, until 1517, when the Cardinal himself died while awaiting the arrival of Charles I, who was to be the new king. Cisneros was behind some of the buildings that can be seen in Torrelaguna to this day. But let’s start from the beginning.

The Moors conquered Torrelaguna from neighbouring Talamanca, and it was they who built its first defences, the outer walls. The remains of these walls today are so limited that their original dimensions cannot be established. Nevertheless, some parts are still visible, such as the Portada de Quirós and Puerta de Santa Fe gates.

Later, after the conquest by Alfonso VI, the village began to gain importance. So much so, in fact, that Torrelaguna still has one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in the whole Region of Madrid, the parish church of Santa María Magdalena.

Building of this church drew out over almost three centuries (14th-17th), and it is an excellent exponent of the Gothic church, with subsequent additions in Renaissance and Baroque styles. This visit is not to be missed, both on account of the building itself as well as the altarpieces to be found inside.

Strolling through the streets of Torrelaguna is a real pleasure. In the historic centre there are a large number of civil buildings and emblazoned houses which speak of the great many illustrious figures who spent long periods in the village.

Among the civil buildings, special mention should be made of the Granary, built under the patronage of Cisneros, serving to store grain at times of need. It is currently home to Torrelaguna Town Hall.

Walking around the streets adjacent to the main square, you will see some of the palaces that remain standing, although it should also be said that many have disappeared over the ages. Among those that can still be seen is Salinas Palace, whose façade is a first sketch of what would later be the Façade of Alcalá de Henares University, as well as Arteaga (or Infantado) Palace, currently the operational offices of the Canal de Isabel II Water Authority.

Buitrago de Lozoya[+]

Buitrago de Lozoya is the last stop on the route (33 kilometres from Torrelaguna). We would recommend you stay the night here. This will give you the chance to see the spectacular medieval wall at dusk or in the morning. It is in excellent condition, and you will be able to visit it feeling rested and refreshed.

The walled enclosure of Buitrago de Lozoya is the best conserved in the Madrid Region. Its construction began at the time of Moorish domination, during the 9th and 10th centuries, although later, under Christian control it would be extended (12th-14th centuries), reaching a perimeter of 800 metres. The Lozoya River, which gives its additional name to the village, runs around all sides of Buitrago apart from the south, acting as a natural defensive moat. There are thirteen towers set around the perimeter, the Clock Tower being one of the most attractive, reaching 16 metres in height.

Strolling around the historic centre you can see Mendoza Castle, the Mendozas being a family with close links to the village. This castle dates from the 15th century, although it was refurbished later on. A fire damaged the whole building and the interior patio has now been refurbished for use as a bullring.

Also worthy of note for your visit is Santa María Church (14th century), and you could finish your walk by crossing the river over Arrabal Bridge. If you come during September, you will be immediately transported to the Middle Ages, because in recent years there has been a Medieval Fair held here that has become highly popular.

Before leaving Buitrago, once you have sampled some of the delicious meat to be had at any of its restaurants, we would highly recommend a visit to the Picasso Museum in the square of the same name.

This museum was the work of Eugenio Arias, born in Buitrago, who is perhaps better known for being hairdresser to the brilliant artist from Malaga. The friendship between Picasso and Arias began in the village of Vallauris, on the Côte d’Azur in France, where Picasso spent long periods and where Eugenio Arias had his hairdresser’s. The friendship between the two left behind numerous pieces that Picasso gave as presents to his hairdresser, dated between 1948 and 1972.

Most outstanding are the works with bullfighting-related drawings – this was a passion shared by both friends. At this museum you will also find a beautiful ceramic basin with the silhouettes of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. Admission is free, and you must only take care not to visit on a Monday, when it is closed.

Your route is now finished, and it takes less than an hour to return to Madrid (only 76 kilometres) – traffic permitting, of course.