This itinerary will take you to one of the least known and most enigmatic areas of the Madrid Region. As it is a long route, we would recommend that you head out early, or do it in various stages to make the most of the range of rural accommodation available in the area. We will head up from the middle section of the Jarama River, through its dry-crop plain, towards the river’s source close to the Montejo Beech Forest. We will also explore part of the Region’s largest reservoir, built exclusively for drinking water supply.
Here we suggest that you stop off at the villages en route. The local people have managed to conserve the important historic-artistic heritage of these villages, as well as their unusual mountain architecture, their folk traditions and their agriculture/livestock-based cuisine; you will always be made very welcome. You will discover a land that was all but forgotten until recent times, and which is now being revived and adapting to modern times in response to the demand of tourism, making these unspoilt nature areas into ideal destinations, close at hand. A varied array of rural accommodation in many of these small villages means that you can enjoy an unforgettable stay at any time of year, meeting the local people, getting to know their traditions, their countryside and their heritage.
Talamanca del Jarama [+]
Called Mantua Carpetana by the Romans, the defensive walls were built by the Moors and it was re-conquered by Alfonso VI (1083). Roman bridge over the old course of the Jarama River, Romanesque apse (end of the 12th century) of San Juan Bautista church, and Mudejar apse of Los Milagros (13th century) in the village square.
Torrelaguna[+]
It was settled by Iberians, Romans and Visigoths; also re-conquered from the Moors by Alfonso VI (1085). John I gave it the title of "villa real" (royal village). Grand portals, noble coats of arms and important buildings bear witness to its distinguished past. In the village’s Plaza Mayor Square: the old Granary (15th century), now the town hall, founded by Cardinal Cisneros, who was born here – a cross in the square commemorates the site of his house; Santa María Magdalena church (15th-16th centuries) – slender and elegant, with three naves and exquisite ornamentation from the time and style of queen Isabella; the Baroque altarpiece of the main altar is attributed to Narciso Tomé, and the statue of Christ on the cross in the El Evangelio Chapel was a gift from Pope Alexander VI to the Catholic Monarchs; local tradition has it that Santa María de la Cabeza and San Isidro el Labrador, patron saints of Madrid, were married here.
Torremocha de Jarama[+]
Historical references indicate that the bell tower of San Pedro Church (16th century) could have been a defensive watchtower at some time; the church has an exterior gallery and Gothic paintings. An Agricultural Museum and a Craft Centre have been established recently.
Patones de Arriba[+]
The beauty of its setting, of its houses and streets built in local slate, along with the myth and legend surrounding the local livestock farmer known as "the King", have made this picturesque village one of the most popular destinations in the Region of Madrid.
El Atazar Reservoir [+]
It has a capacity of 426 Hm3, and a dam reaching 128 m in height – the largest reservoir in the Madrid Region. It is the last reservoir on the course of the Lozoya River. On the way to El Berrueco you can see one of the watchtowers, part of the Jarama defence system built by the Moors during the Catholic re-conquest.
El Berrueco
In 1560 it received the title of "Villazgo" (a distinction and privilege); for this reason the old "Picota" (decorative stone column) was erected in the square. The parish church here has the only baptismal font for full immersion that remains in the Region of Madrid.
Montejo de la Sierra[+]
Its streets, squares, fountains and the Renaissance parish church of San Pedro (with exterior belfry, and Mudejar coffering and Romanesque statues inside) all justify an unhurried visit. Mountain Resources Centre: permanent exhibition on the local area; this is where to request a permit for access to the Montejo Beech Forest.
Montejo Beech Forest[+]
Nature Area of National Interest. This is one of the southernmost forests of beech trees in Europe and the only one in the Region of Madrid, located in the upper basin of the Jarama River. Beech trees, Pyrenean oak, holly, ferns, Spanish greenweed, badgers, otters, European wild cats, sparrow hawks, booted eagles and Schreiber’s green lizards are some of the species of flora and fauna that live in these unique natural surroundings.
To get to the village of La Hiruela, head towards El Cardoso, in the neighbouring province of Guadalajara. You will continue to discover even more Madrid mountain villages.
La Hiruela
Make the most of your visit to see the craft ceramics and sculpture workshops to be found here. The return trip to Montejo de la Sierra is via La Hiruela Pass, and the beauty of the route makes it worth taking your time.
Horcajo de la Sierra
Set beneath Porrilla peak (1,542 m). There is an interesting Plateresque altarpiece in the parish church of San Pedro in Cátedra (15th century).
Madarcos
This is another of the Madrid Region’s smallest villages. It has interesting traditional elements: a granite stand for shoeing livestock, a 17th century fountain, and the charming masonry belfry to be found on Santa Ana Church.
Buitrago de Lozoya[+]
This is the nerve centre of the Sierra Norte region. The village’s historic centre is a walled enclosure with fortress, and has the "Historic-Artistic Site" designation. Since Roman times, many different cultures have taken advantage of Lozoya’s natural moat to mark their defensive lines. It was a Moorish village re-conquered by Alfonso VI (1065-1109); in 1380 Pedro González de Mendoza founded the Entailed Estate of Buitrago; under John I it received the title of County; later it passed into the hands of Don Iñigo López de Mendoza, the first Marquis of Santillana, and 15th century poet. Santa María del Castillo Church (15th-16th centuries) was destroyed during the Spanish Civil War; when it was restored, a beautiful piece of Mudejar coffering from the old "Hospitalillo" hospital (no longer in existence) was incorporated above the main altar. Pablo Picasso Museum: a collection of personal mementos belonging to Eugenio Arias, who was a close friend of the brilliant artist from Malaga during his exile in France. Books, personal photographs, dedicated lithographs, plates and the artist’s only known pyrograph, provide new elements by which to discover more about his life and work.
La Cabrera[+]
Set beneath La Miel peak (1,391 m). "Villa de San Roque" Sierra Norte Mountains Tourism Centre: eco-museum and botanical gardens, not to be missed if you want to find out more about the history and characteristics of the Sierra Norte Mountains of Madrid. San Antonio Convent (11th Century): one of the first Benedictine monasteries following the rule of Cluny to be established on the Iberian peninsula. Today it is the Franciscans who keep it and show it to the public. A visit is highly recommended for its setting, historical interest and artistic value.
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